Should you set white balance to daylight before applying a daylight film emulation preset?
Asked 6/11/2014
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I'm trying to process a set of digital photos with a Kodak Portra 160 film emulation preset and wondered whether I should first set white balance to daylight, since Portra 160 is daylight-balanced film. When I set my RAW files to around 5500K/daylight before applying the preset, the result looked cooler than I expected compared with actual Portra 160 shots made in similar light. If I leave white balance on auto, the result seems closer. Do film emulation presets assume a particular white balance, or can manually setting daylight effectively apply the color bias twice?
Originally by Photography Stack Exchange contributor. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
Photography Stack Exchange contributor
12y ago
2 Answers
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I think the problem lies in your expectation that the Portra film shots are going to strongly show the effects of different color temperatures.
While it's true that Portra 160 (or any commonly-available color film these days) is daylight balanced, color prints and scans of color negatives are always color corrected as part of the process. The photo you're trying to match has already had the white balance "fixed" by the person printing or scanning the film.
If you shot reversal film (for transparencies or slides) your expectation would be more accurate, since there's no correction applied after the photo is taken.
Originally by user25990. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
user25990
11y ago
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Usually, no—you should not assume a film emulation preset expects you to manually set WB to daylight first.
Daylight-balanced color negative film such as Portra 160 is normally color-corrected during printing or scanning, so the final look of real Portra is not just the raw film response under daylight. That means a preset trying to mimic Portra may already include its own color assumptions, and adding a daylight WB beforehand can push the file too far and make it look cooler than expected.
Also, in RAW processing, “daylight” is not always a simple fixed Kelvin value; converters may also apply tint shifts on the green/magenta axis. So setting 5500K/daylight and then applying a preset can effectively stack corrections.
In practice, the best approach is to treat the preset as a starting point: try it with your normal or auto white balance, then fine-tune WB afterward by eye to match the look you want.
If this were slide/reversal film, matching the film’s native balance would matter more, because there is no print/scan color correction step in the same way.
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AI12y ago
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