It's near impossible to tell exactly what the spots in your picture are. It is fairly easy to look at them and eliminate what they are not: hot or dead pixels.

Due to the sharp outlines and well defined irregular shapes of the different spots it is fairly safe to say that they are on or very close to the actual sensor itself, and not on top of the stack of filters that lie directly in front of the sensor. If they were on top of the entire sensor stack at the very wide aperture with which the example image appears to have been taken they would be very blurry and indistinct, rather than sharply defined. They might even be an effect of some sort of internal sensor damage that affects the readout of the sensor.

It's just a guess but I think it may be possible your camera might have attended a "color run" or similar event in the past. When colored powder got into the camera someone tried to clean it. In the process some magenta colored powder seems to have been moved under the sensor stack into the surface of the sensor itself where it is now trapped between the sensor and the filters that cover the sensor. The fact that the problem area is very close to an edge supports this theory.

You might try to reduce the effects of the spots by following the procedure outlined in your EOS 60D Instruction Manual (pp.231-32) for recording and applying dust deletion data. Once you do that the camera will apply the dust deletion data to jpegs produced in-camera when that option is selected in the camera's menu.

If you save the raw data files and want to automatically apply the dust deletion data when editing on your computer you can use Canon's Digital Photo Professional to convert the raw files. Version 4 of DPP is quite good, includes more features, and has a more user friendly interface than the previous versions. I prefer using DPP to convert the raw files from my Canon cameras. It seems to me that the colors can be more finely controlled than with third party tools such as Lr/Ps or DxO.

Since the spots all seem to be a rather uniform magenta in color, you might also try to reduce the magenta by using the Hue/Saturation/Luminance (HSL) tool included in many photo editing applications. If the photo you're editing has no other instances of magenta in the frame you can reduce the saturation for magenta to zero and then adjust the luminance value to blend it in with the surrounding area.

If that doesn't work you can try to manually repair each spot with a "healing" type of tool that converts spots to the average color of the surrounding area. Most such tools allow you to specify the size of surrounding area from which the color is averaged.

Ultimately I don't think you'll be able to totally remove the effects of these artifacts without replacing the sensor.