Is optical stabilization important on a budget telephoto lens for handheld shooting?

Asked 11/26/2017

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I’m choosing between two inexpensive Sigma lenses for an EOS 450D: a 70-300mm f/4-5.6 without stabilization, and an 18-250mm f/3.5-6.3 with optical stabilization. I’m mainly interested in telephoto use rather than the zoom range itself.

Typical subjects would include city skyline shots from my apartment, including at dusk, plus general long-range photography. I mostly use a 50mm prime now.

For this kind of shooting, how important is optical stabilization on a telephoto lens? Is it worth prioritizing stabilization, or is a non-stabilized telephoto fine if I use good technique or a tripod?

Originally by Photography Stack Exchange contributor. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0

Photography Stack Exchange contributor

8y ago

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If you're shooting with a tripod ­— a good, solid one, not a sub-$100 deal — image stabilization isn't very important. If you're shooting in a controlled environment with strobes, it's not very important either. Or, if you're shooting in very bright light where you can get good depth of field and a fast shutter speed (to today's standards of pickiness, much faster than ¹⁄focal length), not important.

But, for focal lengths over 100mm, if you're hand-holding, if you can't get to very fast shutter speeds, you'll need optical image stabilization to get sharp results. So, the question reduces to: are you shooting in those situations, and are sharp results important to you?

That last question part is somewhat mind-blowing because if you read camera forums you often encounter an almost religious focus on sharpness as the measure of success of a camera, lens, camera system, photograph, or photographer. That's... a fine cult, I guess, but isn't really the only way to go. There are plenty of other schools of thought on the matter. If you're willing to relax on that a little bit, you might be happier saving a bit of money.

Note that both of these lenses are super-budget lenses, a zoom and a "superzoom". They're amazing for what they are, but they have a lot of compromises in order to get to that price point with that zoom range. Stabilization will not change that — and in fact the lens with stabilization is also the one with greater zoom range, and in order to get that all in at that price point, there's likely (and reviews bear this out) even more compromise around distortion, sharpness, and aberrations. So... really it comes down to which compromises are more important to you.


In a comment, you add:

I have an EOS 450D (that I basically only use with the cheap Canon 50mm prime lens to do portraits of my wife and son). I currently live in NYC in an apartment with a nice skyline view so I'd like to take pictures of e.g. Manhattan at dusk, etc. So I guess [...] I'm looking to optimize the quality of the long range shots I can take, while also being happy if for about the same price I get a more versatile lens.

... and in this specific situation, we can give specific advice. Particularly, presumably you have room to set up in your apartment or on your balcony. Get a tripod (see this Q&A for advice — budget around $200) and don't worry about image stabilization. You'll probably want to be working at f/8 (on whatever lens you get), and if you're looking to shoot at dusk, you don't have good light, so you'll need long shutter speeds.

Reviews of the Sigma 18-250 indicate that its OIS is good for three stops, so if we assume ¹⁄₄₀₀th as a rule of thumb requirement for handholding, that'll buy you down to ¹⁄₅₀th (one stop faster: ¹⁄₂₀₀th, two stops faster: ¹⁄₁₀₀th...). That's not going to be fast enough at dusk even wide open at f/6.3, so you'll want a tripod anyway.

Originally by user1943. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0

user1943

8y ago

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It depends mostly on how you’ll shoot.

If you use a solid tripod, optical stabilization matters much less. The same is true in bright light or other situations where you can keep shutter speeds high. But for handheld telephoto shooting, stabilization becomes much more useful as focal length increases.

A common guideline is to use a shutter speed at least as fast as the inverse of the focal length: around 1/250s at 250mm, for example. Stabilization can often buy you 1–2 stops, letting you shoot more like 1/125s or even 1/60s and still reduce camera shake. That can be especially helpful at dusk, when light is low.

So for skyline shots at dusk, if you’re handholding, stabilization is a real advantage. If you plan to shoot those scenes from a tripod, then stabilization is far less important, and a non-stabilized telephoto can work fine with good technique.

In short: handheld telephoto + low light = stabilization is valuable; tripod use = not very important.

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