How should I set up Hugin for a 360° panorama with a Canon 5D Mark III and EF 16-35mm f/2.8L?
Asked 8/15/2012
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I’m shooting a full 360° panorama with a Canon 5D Mark III and Canon EF 16-35mm f/2.8L at 16mm. In Hugin, automatic alignment only matches a small number of the images, and extra control points I add don’t seem to improve the result.
What lens type and camera settings should I enter in Hugin for this lens/body combination? Also, could using too many source images be the problem? I shot 72 frames for one panorama. If this setup is not ideal, would a Canon 8-15mm fisheye be easier to stitch in Hugin?
Originally by Photography Stack Exchange contributor. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
Photography Stack Exchange contributor
14y ago
2 Answers
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Your lens should be marked as "Normal" in Hugin, and the focal length multiplier of your camera is 1.0.
The auto-alignment in Hugin can be frustrating at times. I have found that the wider the field of view the more difficult it is for Hugin to align images. There are also a few different algorithms that you can choose to automatically select and align control points. The best one (by far!) is called autopano-sift-c. This algorithm is not part of the official Hugin installer (due to a legal issue related to patents). You have to install it yourself. If you are not using autopano-sift-c then you should give it a try. But even with autopano-sift-c, in pretty much every panorama I do I have to add more control points over the ones that Hugin finds on its own to improve the stitching.
Using the optimizer also requires some practice, since it has a lot of options. I typically start with a rough alignment of just orientation, then incrementally add more variables as needed. I use the "Custom" option a lot, to only optimize for the pictures that have problems, leaving the ones that are okay alone.
I've got decent results with autopano-sift-c using any "Normal" lenses, I believe the widest one I've used is 17mm. I have not had any luck at all using full frame and circular fisheye lenses though, for those I always select my control points manually.
Good luck.
Originally by user7604. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
user7604
14y ago
0
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In Hugin, the EF 16-35mm on a 5D Mark III should be set as a normal/rectilinear lens, with the actual focal length entered and a crop factor of 1.0.
The bigger issue is likely the number of frames. At 16mm on full frame, a full spherical pano usually needs far fewer than 72 images—roughly in the 17–29 range unless you were bracketing exposures. With 72 shots, overlap may be excessive, which can confuse control-point detection and stitching.
If you did bracket exposures, organize each bracketed set into stacks before stitching. If not, remove redundant images and try again.
Hugin’s auto-alignment can also be inconsistent with very wide views. If you aren’t using autopano-sift-c for control-point generation, it may help, though manual control-point cleanup is still often needed.
Your 8-15mm fisheye can also work well for spherical panoramas and may require fewer frames than the 16-35mm.
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