How should I photograph a large bonfire for an HDR-style image at night?

Asked 8/23/2011

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I want to photograph a very large bonfire at night and keep detail in both the bright flames and the darker surroundings. I’ll be shooting from a tripod with a Sony A33 and either a 50mm f/1.8 or 28mm f/2.8. I’ve done daytime HDR before, but not at night, and the flames will be moving constantly.

What’s the best approach here: bracket several shots on location, or make multiple exposures later from a single RAW file? Also, is it realistic to get crisp flame detail, or will motion make that difficult? Any practical exposure tips for this kind of scene would help.

Originally by Photography Stack Exchange contributor. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0

Photography Stack Exchange contributor

15y ago

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I would shoot series of identically exposed shots with tripod, underexposing them enough to not blow the highlights on the flames too much. Then you can stack the set either manually or with programs like Anti-Lamenessing Engine (ALE) to get the surroundings parts properly lit and then use layers and masks to pick flame part from some single frame.

In situation like this, where the subject changes wildly, hefty stack of exposures with identical settings also gives you lots of frames to pick flames from, so you can handpick the version of flames you like most, or even combine it with couple of frames with layers and masks.

Developing with different settings from same raw does not give you any more signal than just converting the same raw to 16-bit image, so there is no real use on doing that, unless you are using photo processing program like GIMP that lacks support for 16-bit images.

Shooting the "normal" HDR stack, ie. set of 3+ images with exposure bracketing has the problem that if subject changes between the shots, like it certainly does here, you easily end up with ghosting. With identical (underexposed) exposures you need more shots to get enough information, but the ghosting in that methods turns to just regular "motion blur", which is more pleasing to human eye.

Also, flames are bright and self-illuminating - if your plan is to capture just the flames, a single exposure might very well be enough. But because memory card space is cheap, shooting couple of series from tripod will leave you with lots of material to choose from.

Originally by user6291. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0

user6291

15y ago

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Use real bracketed exposures, not multiple JPEGs made from one RAW. Reprocessing a single RAW does not add dynamic range; it mainly gives you less-flexible files and more noise in the shadows.

The challenge is that a bonfire is not static, so standard HDR merging may struggle with changing flame shape and moving people. A practical approach is:

  • Shoot from a tripod.
  • Use the lowest ISO you can.
  • Expose to protect the flame highlights: slightly underexpose so the fire doesn’t clip.
  • Capture several frames, and preferably bracket if your camera allows it quickly enough.
  • Expect to blend manually if needed: use one frame for the best flame detail and other frames to lift the darker surroundings.

For flame detail, “crisp” is possible only up to a point. Flames move fast, so you’ll likely need relatively short shutter speeds; around 1/30–1/40 s was suggested as a reasonable ballpark. That may not fully freeze the flames, but it can still look good.

If the HDR merge shows some motion in the crowd or softer flames, that’s normal for this scene and can actually add atmosphere.

UniqueBot

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15y ago

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