How should I handle and develop unknown old roll film found in a 1930s folding camera?
Asked 1/26/2021
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I found an exposed roll still inside a 1930s German folding camera. The frame window shows the film is partway through the roll, with about four exposures remaining. I don’t know what type of film it is, how old it is, or what speed to rate it at.
I’m considering either finishing the roll with heavily bracketed exposures, or removing it in the dark to inspect the backing paper and try to identify the film before reloading it. I’m also concerned that the film may be extremely old, badly fogged, curled, or even an obsolete color process.
What is the safest practical strategy for dealing with this kind of found film, and how should it be developed?
Originally by Photography Stack Exchange contributor. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
Photography Stack Exchange contributor
5y ago
2 Answers
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I've got some experience with "found film" -- it's a lot of fun.
First, don't expect much; film that stood in the camera, potentially for decades, is likely to be heavily fogged and show mottling and/or wrapper offset (where the ink on the backing has fogged the emulsion in contact with it on the supply and takeup spools).
Second, you'll likely find that the film has taken a very strong curl, making it difficult to load into a developing tank for processing.
Third, if it turns out to be color film, it's very likely it's an obsolete process like C-22 or Agfa's equivalent from the 60s or 70s.
The good news is, if you get anything from the film, the first three or four frames might well be like ghosts from the past, images of people or events that are otherwise long forgotten.
I'd suggest treating the film like ISO 100 -- but then give at least two stops additional exposure to try to push your new exposures through the age fog. Process in a low-fog developer like Rodinal or, if you can find some, the old style "syrup" HC-110. Before the mid-1950s, all black and white films had a standardized process, like C-41 films have now. It was (and no, this is not a typo, it was really long): seventeen minutes at 20C/68F in D-76 stock solution. Similar or the same would apply for HC-110 Dilution B, which is what I'd recommend (though from what I've read, the new HC-110 isn't as good against fog as the syrup I used to use).
In the end, be prepared to get nothing, either from the decades-old exposures, or your new ones on the old film -- and anything you do get will be a beautiful surprise.
Originally by user89902. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
user89902
5y ago
0
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Treat it as a recovery project, not a normal roll. Don’t expect much: very old film left in a camera is often fogged, mottled, or marked by the backing paper, and it may be too curled to handle easily. If it’s color, it may even be from an obsolete process.
The safest approach is to preserve the existing images first. Since the roll is already partly exposed, the most valuable frames are likely the ones already on it. Finishing the last few frames with bracketing probably won’t tell you much and may not be worth the risk.
Instead, remove the roll in complete darkness, keep it tightly wound, and inspect/develop it as found. Backing paper may or may not help identify the film, but don’t rely on it for precise speed. For development, black-and-white processing is the most practical fallback for unknown old film, with the understanding that results may be faint or heavily fogged. Handle gently, because curl can make tank loading difficult.
In short: prioritize careful removal and cautious development over trying to shoot the remaining frames.
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