How should I expose and transition a sunset-to-stars-to-moonrise timelapse?
Asked 8/19/2021
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I want to shoot a timelapse that starts at sunset, continues into full darkness with Milky Way visibility, and ends with a 15% moonrise. My usual sunset timelapse setup is aperture priority, ISO 100, f/4 at 10mm, -1 EV, with an interval around 15 seconds. For astrophotography, I typically use f/4 at 10mm, ISO 1600, and a long shutter speed.
What exposure approach works well for stars when there is a thin crescent moon, and what is the best way to transition from sunset through twilight into night and moonrise without visible flicker or jumps in the final timelapse?
Originally by Photography Stack Exchange contributor. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
Photography Stack Exchange contributor
4y ago
2 Answers
2
After asking this question, I went out to do the shoot. I made several mistakes but also learned some valuable lessons (for me) and I wanted to share them. I was able to get a reasonable sunset to milky way timelapse (see here for results)
As I mentioned, I made several mistakes. Here are some:
- I miscalculated and the moon rose out of frame.
- I took too few pictures (1 every 2m, it should have been at least 1 every 30s or 15s, I think)
- The lens fogged up (which you can see at the end of the sequence).
A quick note about my equipment. I used a Nikon D7500 with a Tokina 11-20mm F/2.8 and a Vello Shutterboss.
There are basically 3 periods in the sunset to stars sequence. The first is when the sun is visible. The second is twilight between the time the sun disappears and total darkness (this usually takes about an hour). Phase three is when the sky is completely dark.
Phase 1 While the sun is settings on the camera I used moved between 1/8000s F4 100 ISO down to 1/500s F4 500s. This kept the image at 0EV.
Phase 2 This is the transition phase. You want to keep it as smooth as possible between phase 1 exposure and phase 3 exposure, which I will talk about later. Here I tried moving from 0EV to -1EV so as to show the sun setting and the sky getting darker. I first continued to lower shutter speed until I got to about 10s, then adjusted to F2.8, then continued adjusting started raising ISO to about 1600, and then did finally adjusted for phase 3.
Phase 3 For starlight exposure, I did not want to get star trails. I checked PhotoPills and it told me not to go above ~20s exposure. So, my settings for this phase were 20s F/2.8 2000 ISO.
Hope this helps anyone else who might be trying the same thing.
Originally by user60419. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
user60419
4y ago
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Treat this as three phases: sunset, twilight, and night/moonrise. For the changing light from sunset into darkness, a bulb-ramping (“bramping”) intervalometer is the best way to smoothly adjust exposure over time. It helps reduce jumps, though some flicker can still happen.
To minimize flicker, avoid aperture changes during the sequence. Lens aperture cycling can cause shot-to-shot variation, so keep the aperture fixed and favor manual control where possible.
For the moon itself, use the Looney 11 rule as a starting point: about f/11 with shutter speed near 1/ISO, or an equivalent exposure. The moon is much brighter than stars, so expose it separately from the Milky Way if you want detail in both.
Practical lessons from a similar attempt: use a fairly short interval so movement looks smooth (roughly 15–30 seconds rather than minutes), plan framing carefully so the moon actually rises into frame, and watch for lens fog during long overnight shoots.
In short: fixed aperture, ramp exposure gradually through twilight, use moon-specific exposure when it rises, and expect stars and moon to require very different settings.
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AI4y ago
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