How should I expose a sunrise timelapse without blown highlights?
Asked 6/29/2012
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I’m new to DSLR photography and want to shoot a sunrise timelapse with a Nikon D5100 and the 18-55mm or 55-200mm lens. Before sunrise, my frames look fine, but once the sun comes up the image becomes overexposed. What camera settings or metering approach should I use so the exposure can handle the changing light during sunrise more naturally?
Originally by Photography Stack Exchange contributor. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
Photography Stack Exchange contributor
14y ago
2 Answers
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This is general comment - not D5100 specific
I assume that the exposure is NOT locked for all of the sequence but can vary. As light level changes. This may be an option. You need to be able to allow exposure to change - ie an auto setting.
You may need to experiment with spot / centre / wide exposure settings. Depending on which of these you use the foreground composition may have an undesired effect on lighting. eg with wide exposure setting the foreground may not increase in brightness as rapidly as the sky near the sun does - so the average scene exposure will be progressively lower as the sun rises. Changing to spot or centre may make a significant difference. This may be the single greatest thing you can easily do to improve things. (But, it may not work :-) ). This plus exposure bracketing and/or HDR may help a lot.
You can also probably set eg auto-ISO so the camera backs off in ISO setting as the scene brightens.
Try taking some shots yourself and find out what settings give you the results you want at various light levels and then look for an auto exposure strategy that works.
IF you can set the camera to shoot exposure brackets in time lapse mode then set them as wide as possible and use what works best from the sequence.
If the exposure is locked for the whole sequence (seems unlikely) you are "in trouble". Some solutions that comes to mind then are
External timer that takes timed sequential shots. Camera will autoexpose each time. This would also allow exposure autobracketing or HDR which otherwise may not be available in sequential mode.
Getting desperate - A graded neutral density filter which is moved with time or light level. This would be an excellent solution functionally even with autoexposure and is not actually very hard to achieve if you have appropriate resources - but is not the sort of thing you'd usually need to turn to.
Originally by user6263. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
user6263
14y ago
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For a sunrise timelapse, don’t lock one exposure for the whole sequence. The light level changes too much from pre-dawn to direct sun, so you need exposure to adjust as the scene brightens.
A practical approach is to use an automatic exposure mode and test different metering patterns. Metering matters a lot at sunrise because the bright sky can fool the camera:
- Matrix/evaluative metering may average the bright sky and darker foreground.
- Center-weighted can give more importance to the middle of the frame.
- Spot metering can help if you meter from a specific area, but it can also vary a lot depending on where the spot falls.
The best choice depends on your composition, especially how much foreground versus bright sky is in the frame. If the sun or bright sky dominates, changing metering mode can make a big difference.
In short: let exposure vary during the timelapse, and experiment with matrix, center-weighted, and spot metering to see which gives the smoothest sunrise transition with your framing.
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