How can I use hyperfocal focusing when my lens has no distance scale?
Asked 2/24/2011
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I understand the idea of hyperfocal distance, but my Nikon 18-55mm and 35mm f/1.8 lenses don't have focus distance markings. Many guides assume a lens with a distance scale, so I'm looking for practical ways to maximize depth of field and get a scene as sharp as possible from foreground to background without those markings. Is focusing about one-third into the scene a good substitute, or are there better methods?
Originally by Photography Stack Exchange contributor. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
Photography Stack Exchange contributor
15y ago
2 Answers
5
As you already mentioned, it is pretty hard without focus distance indicators.
The only thing that comes to mind is using the stop down button on your camera while adjusting the focus manually. You might get better results with the live view on and zooming in. I use this technique to focus when I tilt my TS-E lens.
Originally by user3789. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
user3789
15y ago
0
Generated from our catalog & community — verify before relying on it.
The “focus one-third into the scene” rule is only a rough myth. Hyperfocal distance depends on focal length and aperture, so it changes from shot to shot.
Without a distance scale, practical options are:
- Use a hyperfocal chart or calculator for your focal length and f-stop, then estimate that distance in the scene.
- Practice estimating distances by eye; this gets easier with experience.
- Use live view, magnify the image, and manually focus while checking foreground and background sharpness.
- If your camera has a depth-of-field preview button, stop the lens down and evaluate the range of acceptable sharpness as you adjust focus.
A good general approach for landscapes is to stop down to around f/8 or f/11, then focus at the estimated hyperfocal distance rather than at infinity or arbitrarily one-third in.
Also remember that “maximum sharpness from front to back” has limits: if the foreground is very close, one frame may not keep everything perfectly sharp, especially with a wide aperture. In those cases, stopping down more or changing composition/distance may help.
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