How can I safely reduce lens condensation when moving from air conditioning into hot, humid air?
Asked 8/13/2011
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2 answers
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When I move a camera and lens from an air-conditioned space into hot, humid outdoors, the lens often fogs up just when I want to shoot quickly. I know the basic fix is to wait for the gear to warm up, but is there any safe way to speed that up?
Specifically:
- Is direct sunlight a good idea, or could it overheat the camera?
- Should I remove the lens, or is it better to keep the camera closed up?
- How can I tell when condensation has fully cleared and it’s safe to shoot?
I’m asking about the immediate transition from cool/dry indoor air to warm/humid outdoor air.
Originally by Photography Stack Exchange contributor. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
Photography Stack Exchange contributor
15y ago
2 Answers
16
The faster the transition, the greater the chance of causing damage to your equipment. If you want to protect your equipment from failure due to water(ie condensation issues) a slow gradual transition of about 20mins is the best idea. With that said, I have some tips below and if you follow them, you should be able to safely speed up this process.
The issue is that the air surrounding your lens is cooled to an extent that the air can no longer retain the moisture within it. When your cold lens is exposed to that warm, humid air you will get condensation. If the temperature of the lens is a lower than the dew point of the air around you, that is when you see trouble.
First off, don't remove your lens after you get into the new environment. The only thing that will do is expose your mirror and inside of the lens to the moisture, potentially causing much greater issues then the outside version.
I did find evidence that a smaller lens will acclimate quicker to a change in dew point faster then a larger lens, so one possible option is to put down your huge zoom lens and throw on a smaller prime before you head outside.
So onward toward the tips/tricks:
- Put your camera/equipment into a zip-lock bag. This lets the condensation build up in the bag sides instead of on your lens. I've found it allows you not to wipe off the lens once it has been acclimated too.
- Throw a stash of hand warmers into your bag, the moment that you think you are going to head outside for "the shot" activate the hand warmers, and your lenses will start the acclimation process.
- Why not keep your equipment in the garage or car when you think the opportunity might arrive?
- Get a black gear bag, and put it in the direct sunlight for a few minutes before you ever get the camera out. The bag will heat up the equipment faster and get you shooting.
- Move out of this high dew point location that you live in, that sounds real bad.
Originally by user4892. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
user4892
15y ago
0
Generated from our catalog & community — verify before relying on it.
Condensation happens because the cold lens/camera is below the outdoor air’s dew point. The safest approach is a gradual warm-up—about 20 minutes is better than forcing it.
To reduce risk:
- Keep the lens mounted. Removing it exposes the mirror/sensor chamber to warm, moist air and can make things worse.
- Avoid trying to heat the camera quickly. Direct sun may warm it, but rapid temperature change increases condensation risk and can overheat the body.
- Keep the gear in its bag/case during the transition so it warms more slowly.
- If the front element fogs, gently wipe only the exterior if needed, but wait for internal fogging to clear on its own.
A practical trick is to anticipate the move: place the camera in a sealed bag before going outside so moist air condenses on the bag first, not the gear. Then let the camera acclimate before opening it.
You can tell it’s ready when no visible fog remains on any glass surface and the view through the lens looks fully clear and contrasty again. If there’s any haze left, keep waiting.
In short: don’t remove the lens, don’t rush the warm-up, and use a bag/case to slow the transition safely.
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