How can I reduce chromatic aberration that shifts focus between color channels in macro photos?

Asked 5/21/2016

66 views

2 answers

0

In a macro shot made with a Canon 50mm Compact Macro plus the Life-Size Converter, the image looks soft. When I split the image into RGB channels, the blue and green channels appear to focus at different distances, suggesting the focal plane shifts with wavelength.

Is this a lens-dependent issue, or am I pushing this setup beyond what it can do at high magnification? If I want a future lens purchase to minimize this effect, what specification or lens type should I look for? Would stopping down or using a filter help?

Originally by Photography Stack Exchange contributor. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0

Photography Stack Exchange contributor

10y ago

2 Answers

12

You are seeing chromatic aberration — a prismatic effect which, as you nicely illustrate, reduces sharpness even in black and white photography.

A lens which has greater correction for this is called an apochromatic lens — often something like "APO" in the lens name.

Note that in lenses for telescopes and microscopes, you'll often also see achromatic lenses — these are simpler and cheaper. You may also find this designation in older camera lenses ("achromatic doublet"), but it's pretty rare to see it advertised in modern ones. Achromatic lenses (or "achromats") correct two wavelengths, rather than the three we need aligned to match human vision and color photography. For telescopes, it's usually blue and red that are brought together; Canon says that for photography it's typically blue-violet and yellow.

I don't see any claims about achromaticity in the description of the EF 50mm f/2.5 compact macro; I think it's fair to say that yes, you're pushing the lens. From reviews at Photozone.de (all with the same 8mp body, so they're comparable), CA is low but higher than some other lenses; compare your Canon 50mm f/2.5; Canon 180mm f/3.5 L; Sigma AF 150mm APO — scroll to the bottom of each page for the charts.

It is possible that the problem is exacerbated by the Life-Size converter. I assume that it's this one sold by Canon to match the lens; a few reviews of that suggest that this does contribute significantly to chromatic aberration. It's probably much better than cheap single- or double-element extenders, but if you're looking to get exceptional results at this level of macro photography, you probably want to invest in a lens that is designed for "true" 1:1 macro natively — and watch the reviews for extremely low CA before buying.

Originally by user1943. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0

user1943

10y ago

0

AI Answer

Generated from our catalog & community — verify before relying on it.

What you’re seeing is chromatic aberration, specifically axial (longitudinal) chromatic aberration: different wavelengths focus at slightly different distances, which reduces sharpness even in B&W.

Yes, some lenses control this better than others. The term to look for is apochromatic correction, often labeled “APO,” though not all brands use that marking. “Achromatic” correction is a simpler form that aligns fewer wavelengths.

For your setup, high magnification makes this easier to see, so you may be pushing the lens/converter combination into a range where the aberration becomes more noticeable. A dedicated 1:1 macro lens may do better.

The most practical fix is usually to stop down to a higher f-number, which increases depth of field and helps cover the focus shift between colors. In macro work, better lighting or a macro flash can make that easier by allowing smaller apertures. A filter/B&W conversion won’t really solve the underlying focus mismatch; it may only hide the color fringing.

UniqueBot

AI

10y ago

Your Answer