How can I quickly clean wrinkled or dirty studio backgrounds in Photoshop?
Asked 9/27/2011
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2 answers
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I often photograph against studio backdrops that end up wrinkled or dirty. Painting over them with the brush tool looks fake, while clone stamping is slow and not very convincing. What Photoshop techniques work best for cleaning up plain studio backgrounds efficiently while keeping natural-looking results?
Originally by Photography Stack Exchange contributor. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
Photography Stack Exchange contributor
14y ago
2 Answers
8
I've done a lot of this work in the past and tried enough different methods to be sure that there is no quick way to do it that gives good results. You can have either quick or good, but not both together. I'd love to be proven wrong on this as I imagine I'll have to do a lot more of this work in future.
Here are the three main methods I use:
Manually cut out the subject (with the pen tool, lasso etc.), fill the outside area with white. This is the most time consuming but provides the best results. Works best with head/torso shots as if you're working on a full length shot this method removes shadows which prevent the subject being grounded (they look like they're floating in the air). Hair is very problematic so I often rely on the below method for the hair.
Blowing out the background, i.e increasing brightness contrast until the background goes pure white. This can be done globally if you're lucky, but most of the time the background brightness will shift across your image (due to shadows / light falloff), so the amount of brightening to blow it out will vary. I work around the subject with a selection along the edge of the subject, fading out gently into the subject, and adjust the curves until the background goes white locally, then move the selection on to the next part of the edge. Downsides of this method are that it is still time consuming, can produce artifacts / colour shifts in the edges of the subject, and it only works if the background is fairly bright / even to begin with. Also it can't handle shadows.
Blurring the background. Blurring evens out creases well, and copes with shadows and changes in background brightness. The problem with this method is you can't get too close to your subject(s) without blurring them, so you can blur the large areas but then you often need to do some manual fixing around the edges of the subjects using the above methods.
Originally by user1375. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
user1375
14y ago
0
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There isn’t really a method that is both very fast and top-quality. In practice, you usually trade speed for realism.
Useful approaches:
- For plain, untextured backgrounds, make a rough selection of the background, put it on a separate layer, and use Filter > Noise > Dust & Scratches. Apply it selectively with a mask, and use a Smart Object if you want to fine-tune later.
- For larger marks or uneven areas, use the Healing tools, especially the Patch Tool, to replace bad sections with nearby clean texture.
- For the cleanest result, manually cut out the subject and replace/fill the background. This is slow, but often gives the best finish. Be careful with hair and with full-length portraits, since removing the original background can also remove shadows and make the subject look like they’re floating.
Best advice: prevent the problem in-camera when possible. Keep the backdrop clean and smooth, use washable muslins or fresh paper when practical, and light a white background enough to blow it out—or keep light off a black background. Good capture saves a lot of retouching time.
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