How can I photograph a very large group indoors and keep everyone sharp?
Asked 2/1/2012
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I was asked at short notice to photograph a group of 100+ people indoors, arranged in four rows on choir seating. The room had fluorescent and overhead flood lighting. I used a Nikon D90 with an 18-200mm lens at 22mm, plus three flashes: two bounced off a white ceiling from the sides and one on-camera. The results were poor, especially toward the edges where focus/sharpness fell apart, although color was acceptable.
For a group this large, what should I do differently to improve sharpness across the whole group and get more even lighting and better color?
Originally by Photography Stack Exchange contributor. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
Photography Stack Exchange contributor
14y ago
2 Answers
12
When a large group sits on a straight line the subject distance from the center position to the sides varies by more than the distance from the first row to the last row. If they are standing in a rounded fashion, the distance is more uniform. Say, the group is taking a space of 2m depth and 12m wide - the distances will look like this:

The worst case is 12.5-9 = 3.5meters of DOF.
At f=18mm you need to be 9 meters away - calculated on this: http://www.tawbaware.com/maxlyons/calc.htm
Here you can compute you DOF at a certain distance and focal length for your camera:
http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html
It turns out that you have the hyperfocal distance in this case - even if your lens has a magical F/1 (but you probably have more like 3.5 max aperture) you are looking at a 5meter deep DOF. Even if you went further away and zoomed in a bit (e.g. 35mm) you would still be looking at a much deeper DOF than you need.
This concludes that you are not having any DOF issues. It is just your lens that is only sharp in the center, especially if you shot it "wide open" at F/3.5-5 so you should find a nice prime instead that's sharp across the frame at F/4.
Originally by user11455. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
user11455
13y ago
0
Generated from our catalog & community — verify before relying on it.
For very large groups, the main issues are usually distance, depth of field, lens edge performance, and even lighting.
Back up enough and keep the group arranged in a slight curve if possible. A very wide, flat group means the people at the ends can be at a different distance than those in the center, which makes edge sharpness and focus harder. More distance helps depth of field cover everyone.
Your 18-200mm at 22mm may also be part of the problem: superzooms are often weaker at the edges, especially wide. A sharper lens, such as a normal/wide prime or a better-performing mid-range focal length, can help.
Use a moderate aperture rather than going extremely small. Around f/11 was suggested as a good balance; stopping down too far can reduce sharpness from diffraction. You’ll need enough light to support that aperture at a low ISO.
Lighting should be broad and even. Bouncing flash can work, but high ceilings waste a lot of power. For a group this large, make sure you have enough flash output and try to keep illumination consistent across the full width of the group.
Also watch mixed lighting: fluorescents, floods, and flash can cause uneven color, so controlling or matching light sources helps.
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