How can I measure the actual working aperture of a lens when taking a photo?
Asked 6/23/2011
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I’m trying to verify the real aperture a lens uses during exposure, rather than just relying on the marked f-number. For example, the Canon EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L appears to have a front element diameter that seems smaller than expected for 400mm at f/5.6, which made me wonder whether the effective aperture differs from the simple focal-length ÷ front-diameter calculation.
Is there a practical way to measure the actual aperture used in a photograph? I’m fine with setting up a controlled test scene if needed. I’m also interested in whether this could be used to check how accurately a lens stops down to smaller apertures.
Originally by Photography Stack Exchange contributor. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
Photography Stack Exchange contributor
15y ago
2 Answers
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If you have a point lightsource at a known distance and you know the focal distance (the distance to which the lens is focussed) then you can calculate the aperture based on the size of the circle of confusion (the round blob you get when a highlight is OOF).
I don't know the formula off the top of my head but it could be rearranged from the depth of field formula (might have a go at this when I have time).
You also have to know the exact focal length, which I suspect might be partially to blame for the discrepancy.
Originally by user1375. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
user1375
15y ago
0
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Yes, but you need to measure the lens’s effective aperture, not just the physical size of the front element. In real multi-element lenses, the marked f-number relates to light transmission through the optical system and the entrance pupil, not simply the front glass diameter.
A practical approach is to use a controlled setup and measure blur or light transmission:
- Use a point light source at a known distance.
- Focus the lens at a known subject distance.
- Measure the size of the out-of-focus highlight (circle of confusion).
- With the exact focal length and focus distance known, you can work backward from depth-of-field/defocus relationships to estimate the working aperture.
An even more direct method is to measure the amount of light passing through the lens under controlled conditions, since effective aperture is fundamentally about transmitted light.
Also, your front-element comparison is not definitive: on complex lenses, the entrance pupil can differ from the physical front element size, and the exact focal length may not be exactly the marked value. So the apparent mismatch doesn’t necessarily mean the lens is “slower” than specified.
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