You usually won’t get an exact match in third-party RAW editors, because camera makers’ JPEG processing uses proprietary tone curves, color rendering, noise reduction, sharpening, and contrast settings that other software can only approximate.

The closest match is usually the camera manufacturer’s own RAW software, since it often uses the same or very similar processing as the camera’s JPEG engine.

In third-party tools, one useful step is matching the camera’s tone curve/base curve. Darktable has a way to derive a base curve from a RAW+JPEG pair, which can get you closer. After that, you still need to adjust things like noise reduction, sharpening, saturation, brightness, and contrast by eye.

From your example, the JPEG appears to have heavier noise reduction, added sharpening, and different brightness/contrast compared with the RAW default rendering.

So the practical answer is: use the camera maker’s converter if you want the closest in-camera JPEG look; otherwise, expect to combine tools like a derived base curve with some trial-and-error adjustments.