How can I get the sharpest handheld shots at maximum zoom of a moving subject?
Asked 4/25/2018
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I’m shooting a single moving subject with a Panasonic TZ80 at very long zoom (around 60x–120x equivalent), and even when focus seems correct the image can still look soft or blurry from shake or motion. If I can’t maximize everything at once because of exposure, which setting matters most for sharpness: aperture, shutter speed, or ISO? Are there practical techniques that help at extreme telephoto?
Originally by Photography Stack Exchange contributor. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
Photography Stack Exchange contributor
8y ago
2 Answers
5
There are several important things. I leave the most important to the last.
- Use the widest aperture possible. If needed get a better lens. Of course, you can not do that in your camera, so it is a limitation of your camera.
Force aperture to the lowest possible value to give the highest depth of field in case focus is not so accurate
- No. If you want good focus you need a lens and camera that give you good focus. You can not sacrifice something that will give you real problems, like lowering the amount of light at the expense of something "just in case".
Force shutter speed to a very high value
- You set the speed to the highest value possible. Given your aperture and ISO. I will address the "force" word for later.
Force ISO to a low value
- Nop. Use the ISO to the highest value you are willing to use.
You need to test your camera. Change the ISO and see the images on a computer screen. If the images at some High ISO value, for example, 6400 are too noisy that you can not live with them... do not use that value.
Now the word "force".
If your camera is limited, as all cameras are, you need to live on what you have.
- A way to force the shoot to have less motion blur is to underexpose it.
If a happy image is shot at 1/250 but the image is still blurry by motion blur, then underexpose at 1/500. Then you compensate it on post. The result is similar to use a higher ISO, this is... more noise.
Get a good tripod, or way to stabilize your camera. It can be a rock, the car, the floor, a wall.
And finally... In some cases, you can reduce the shakiness of the camera itself using a timer or remote controller so you do not touch the camera, and leave it alone for some seconds so the shakiness of your hand dissipates.
And the most important factor is...
- Light up the moving subject!
If it is a football player at night... ask the stadium to turn on the lights.
Originally by user37321. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
user37321
8y ago
0
Generated from our catalog & community — verify before relying on it.
At extreme zoom, the biggest priority is usually a fast shutter speed. It helps freeze both subject motion and camera shake, which are the main causes of blur at long focal lengths.
A good starting point is to keep shutter speed at least around the 1/focal-length guideline (or faster), and for moving subjects faster is better. To make that possible:
- Use the widest aperture available, not a smaller one just to gain depth of field.
- Raise ISO as needed rather than forcing it low.
- Don’t stop down “just in case” focus misses; that costs light and can make blur worse overall.
Technique also matters a lot at long zoom:
- Brace the camera well, control your handholding, and consider a tripod or monopod.
- Use burst mode; some frames in a burst may be sharper than others.
- If the subject is stationary, you can use a slower shutter speed and lower ISO, but for moving subjects prioritize shutter speed first.
So the order is generally: fast shutter speed first, widest aperture available, then ISO as high as needed for proper exposure.
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