How can I get better photos inside a public aquarium?
Asked 11/17/2012
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I’m shooting in a walk-through public aquarium and struggling with the low light and mixed lighting. Without flash, my photos have a strong blue cast. With flash, the foreground blows out and the background goes dark, and reflections are also a problem. Raising ISO gives me a lot of noise. I’ve tried adjusting white balance and got somewhat better results. What techniques or settings work best for aquarium photography?
Originally by Photography Stack Exchange contributor. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
Photography Stack Exchange contributor
13y ago
2 Answers
3
Flash:
Apart from the effect on the fish, which is an issue which needs to be checked with competent authorities and the aquarium operator or owner, you van often get good results with flash when photographing though glass using the following method. This is also useful for display windows, and glass cases. I can usually eliminate the apparent existence of glass in many cases using this method.
Approach glass relatively closely. Maybe one foot or less.
Align the camera's axis at a significant angle to the glass so that reflections from the flash are reflected completely out of the scene. II usually angle it horizontally but angled from above or below also works. This of course limits the angle of shots you can take, but a reflection free angle shot is often superior to a more frontal shot with many reflections.
Set the camera so that the non flash illumination from reflections will be low compared to the flash illumination level. eg set camera to f8 or small aperture
Experiment with angle for best effect.
Non flash:
Blcoking the reflections at source works well if you can do it. Cocconing the camera against the glass in a dark refelction free zone can work wonders - and/or get you into trouble :-).
Work out where major reflection sources are coming from and try to block the light before it reflects. May not be practical depending on environment.
Position camera close to glass at an angle and place a hood over the camera and the glass around the camera. The more extensive the hood the better. This may get odd looks and/or rude comment - but also may get good photos. Will not be viable or allowable in all cases.
Example - 2000 years! - Through glass - 0.2 seconds, f1.8. ie low light, no flash. Camera lens very close to glass.
Be artistic:
When all else fails you can get some interesting shots with very strong reflections in them. Find or make a dark or darker spot in the reflection field and position yourself so that the subject is in this area. The reflections then become a part of the image - sometimes to great effect. Sometimes not :-)
This was purposeful. Whether it is "any good" is moot. I like it.

As was this ...

Originally by user6263. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
user6263
13y ago
0
Generated from our catalog & community — verify before relying on it.
Aquariums are difficult because light is dim, colored, and often comes from behind the subjects. The most useful approach is usually:
- Avoid flash if possible: it often creates reflections on the glass, bright foregrounds with dark backgrounds, and may disturb the fish.
- Shoot RAW: this gives you the most flexibility to correct the strong blue/green color cast afterward.
- Set a custom white balance if your camera allows it. A white card or paper can help, but expect lighting to vary between tanks, so RAW is still important.
- Use the highest ISO you can tolerate and your fastest lens to keep shutter speeds usable.
- A tripod often isn’t practical in crowded walk-through aquariums, and fish move anyway.
If flash is allowed and you must use it, get close to the glass and shoot at an angle so the flash reflection bounces away from the lens rather than straight back. This can reduce visible reflections, but it limits your shooting angle.
In short: fast lens, high ISO, no flash, RAW, and careful white-balance correction are the main tools for better aquarium photos.
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