How can I create photos that look slightly out of focus but still retain some sharpness?
Asked 10/31/2020
6 views
2 answers
0
I’ve seen photos in Robbie Lawrence’s work that feel soft or out of focus, yet parts of the image still look a bit sharp. How is this effect typically created? I’d like to understand whether it comes from focus placement, motion blur, or something else, and how I might try a similar look in my own documentary-style neighborhood work.
Originally by Photography Stack Exchange contributor. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
Photography Stack Exchange contributor
5y ago
2 Answers
6
The most in-focus things in the photo are the raindrops or snow (it's hard to tell the difference from a single still image, but the varying vectors of their trajectories indicate either snow or rain in a swirling wind) that are falling much closer to the camera than the static items in the scene. They're blurred due to their motion over the duration of the exposure.
From this we can deduce two things:
- The lens was focused at a distance much closer to the camera than the static objects in the image
- If we know the rates at which rain or snow falls (and if we know which is pictured here), then we can guess a fairly accurate approximation of the exposure time used.
Another clue we can use is the observation of how the most out-of-focus parts of the image in the background look. The blur is what some call "busy". Rather than being softly dispersed, the light from the most out of focus objects creates several "bands" or "shells" of decreasing brightness as they move away from the center of the blur.
This is usually a result of using a lens that is highly corrected for field curvature. Such lens designs place a higher priority on edge-to-edge sharpness of a flat two-dimensional target than they do on the smoothness of out of focus areas.
Combine both of those observations and we can guess that the photographer may have been using a "macro" lens designed to be optimized for closest focus and flat field correction. If not a macro lens, at the very least it is a lens that was designed to do better at flat field reproduction than at smoothly depicting a three dimensional scene. Many recently introduced lenses are designed in this way because it seems how a lens scores reproducing flat test charts at relatively close distances is the primary factor in driving sales. (Just look at the out of focus highlights using one of Sigma's ART prime lenses. They may be "tack sharp" reproducing a flat test chart or a two-dimensional document or work of art, but they're not so great at smoothing the out of focus areas of a three dimensional scene. Lenses that don't correct as much, if at all, for field curvature do much better creating smooth out of focus areas, but they do so at the expense of 'sharpness' at the edge of a 2-D target when the lens is focused on the center of the chart.)
The bright straight lines of the window facings and/or door frames at the rear of the scene set against the darker walls and window panes, combined with the "busy" rendering of out-of-focus areas by the lens, give them a more defined shape than the object in the center of the frame that is between the camera and the far background. The nearer object's irregular shape and lower contrast between the bright and dark areas of the object, as well the nearer object's lack of contrasting colors, leaves the secondary blur created by the lens much less defined.
So to create similar images, one could:
- Use a macro lens or other lens with a high degree of flat field correction
- Focus the lens much closer to the camera than the scene
- Use a wide aperture and/or longer focal length to maximize the difference in focus between objects that are nearer and further from the camera and the close focus distance
- Find a scene that has straight lines using contrasting bright and dark colors in the back and combine that with objects having fewer distinct straight lines and having lower contrasting colors/brightness that are closer to the camera
Originally by user15871. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
user15871
5y ago
0
Generated from our catalog & community — verify before relying on it.
This look is most likely a mix of selective focus and motion blur rather than a simple focusing mistake.
From the example discussed, the sharpest visible elements appear to be rain or snow close to the camera. Those streaks are blurred by movement during the exposure, which suggests a relatively slow shutter speed. If the lens is focused closer to the camera than the background subjects, the main scene will appear soft while nearby precipitation can look comparatively more defined.
So the effect can come from:
- focusing at a nearer distance than the background subject
- using a shallow depth of field so only a narrow plane is relatively sharp
- allowing moving elements like rain or snow to streak during exposure
In practice, try focusing on something in the foreground rather than the distant subject, open the aperture for shallower depth of field, and use a slower shutter speed when there’s motion in the scene. The result is a frame that feels soft and atmospheric, but not completely blurred.
Recommended products
UniqueBot
AI5y ago
Your Answer
Related Questions
How can I get a soft background but sharp, colorful subject look in Lightroom?
What is this harsh direct-flash documentary/fashion style, and how is the look created?
How can I create a matte, slightly desaturated look while keeping colors vibrant in Lightroom or Photoshop?
How can I see which autofocus point was used after taking a photo on a Nikon DSLR?
How can I freeze action in low light when aperture and shutter speed are already maxed out?