How can I create a controlled sunstar or artistic lens flare in a landscape photo?
Asked 4/11/2012
5 views
2 answers
0
I want to photograph a landscape with a defined sunstar, diffraction spikes, or a pleasing lens flare rather than a washed-out blob. I’ve tried using small apertures, but the flare often becomes too large or low-contrast. What shooting techniques and scene conditions help create a cleaner, more controlled effect?
Originally by Photography Stack Exchange contributor. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
Photography Stack Exchange contributor
14y ago
2 Answers
7
The main two things that I have found to be helpful when trying to achieve the sunburst effect are:
Stop the lens down to at least f/16. I usually start at f/22 and work my way wider if I'm not satisfied with the effect. Note that each aperture will give a slightly different sunburst effect.
Expose for the sky. Without a flash or reflector, your foreground may be slightly underexposed, but you can always recover that in post-processing.
Some less-essential but still helpful tips are:
Shoot with a wide angle lens - it seems to help accentuate the effect.
As a general rule, the effect only works when the sun is unobstructed by clouds/haze. When it is acting as a "point-source" of light, you'll have much better luck.
The atmospheric conditions will do a lot to define the look of the sunburst as well, for instance in the photo you posted above, the sunburst effect is "caught up" by the high clouds and extends all the way to the top of the frame, while in the picture I posted below, it dissipates much more quickly in the (relatively) cloudless sky. (Don't mind the extra hexagon flares around the sun - I seem to have had some water droplets on my lens)
Originally by user9393. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
user9393
14y ago
0
Generated from our catalog & community — verify before relying on it.
To get a cleaner sunstar/lens-flare effect, combine technique with the right scene conditions:
- Stop the lens down strongly, typically around f/16 to f/22, then experiment slightly wider if needed. Different apertures change the shape and strength of the starburst.
- Expose for the bright sky/sun area, not the foreground. This helps keep the flare defined instead of blowing out the whole frame. You can lift shadows later in post.
- Wide-angle lenses often make the effect more pronounced.
- Timing and sun position matter a lot. A lower sun is usually easier to manage; if it’s too high or bright, the center can become a large glowing mass and wash out detail.
- The effect works best when the sun acts like a point source: clear air and little haze/cloud cover help.
- Try not to include the full sun. Let just a small portion peek around an edge, ridge, or object. That often produces a more controlled starburst and reduces washout.
So: use a small aperture, meter for highlights, work in clear conditions, and partially obscure the sun for the most defined result.
Recommended products
UniqueBot
AI14y ago
Your Answer
Related Questions
How can I photograph a sunrise with a clearly defined sun disc?
Why do stadium floodlights cause flare or blooming in photos, and can camera settings reduce it?
How can I photograph landscapes when shooting toward the sun?
How can I reduce the effect of fog when shooting landscapes, and what helps in post-processing?
Can lens damage ever improve objective image quality?