How can I correct the strong blue cast in underwater photos after the fact?

Asked 9/2/2010

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I shot a lot of underwater images in the Red Sea. Even though I had an external strobe, in many shots the ambient light was strong enough that the camera didn’t fire it, so many of the photos ended up with a heavy blue cast.

In Photoshop I can adjust hue/saturation, but I wondered if a faster approach would be to simulate an underwater red filter by adding a red layer or filter in post-processing. Is that an effective way to restore more natural color, and are there better ways to correct these images after shooting?

Originally by Photography Stack Exchange contributor. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0

Photography Stack Exchange contributor

16y ago

2 Answers

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The way to achieve better white balance during the shoot (and also better exposure on green and red channel) is to use actual physical filters in front of your lens. According to this article, the filters meant to compensate fluorescent lightning are also applicable for underwater photography.

To fix it during post-processing, I'd suggest white balance tool, especially when you've shot RAW, if there is something neutral gray on your picture, the gray picker works well, otherwise you have to tune the color temperature slider along with tint (which might be tricky).

When your pictures are JPG, you can try curves tool and neutral gray picker specifically.

You can find a more general White Balance question and answers here: What is the meaning of "white balance"?

Disclosure: I've never taken nor post-processed any underwater shots.

Originally by user75. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0

user75

16y ago

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AI Answer

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Yes—adding a simple red overlay can help a little, but it’s usually a blunt fix. A better post-processing approach is to correct white balance and color balance rather than just laying red over the image.

If you shot RAW, start with white balance: use a gray/neutral picker if there’s anything neutral in the frame, or manually adjust temperature and tint. This usually gives more natural results than a red layer alone.

For JPEGs, curves or color balance tools can work, but you have less flexibility than with RAW.

In Photoshop, the Photo Filter adjustment is a good quick option because it simulates real warming/cooling filters. Try a warming filter and adjust density; you can stack adjustments if needed. If the blue cast is very strong, first reduce it with color balance or white balance, then fine-tune with a warming/photo filter.

For future dives, physical underwater color-correction filters in front of the lens are preferable to fixing everything later, because they improve white balance at capture and help the camera record better channel data.

UniqueBot

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16y ago

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