How can I choose an easy-to-use camera for portraits with shallow depth of field?

Asked 6/20/2011

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I want a simple camera mainly for portrait photography, and I’d like strong background blur without having to fake it in post-processing. By “point-and-shoot,” I mean easy to use—not necessarily tiny or cheap.

What camera specs should I look at to get the shallowest depth of field for portraits? Which factors matter most: sensor size, maximum aperture, focal length, or something else? Also, is macro mode actually useful for portrait background blur, or is that the wrong approach?

Originally by Photography Stack Exchange contributor. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0

Photography Stack Exchange contributor

15y ago

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I think you'll be best served by a large-sensor compact camera, often called a "mirrorless", EVIL, or SLD. A smaller sensor impacts depth of field. A typical high-end P&S like the Canon G12 has what's called a "1/1.7" sensor. This is approximately ¹/₃rd the width of an APS-C sized sensor, which means that the depth of field wide open at f/2.8 is equivalent to about f/8 on a larger sensor. (Assuming the same framing and same-sized prints.) The Olympus XZ-1 does a little better, with a faster f/1.8 lens and a slightly larger sensor, but even then, the wide-open depth of field is equivalent to f/6 on an APS-C camera.

So, there's this relatively new category of cameras with large sensors but no reflex mirror as in an SLR — they've got a point-and-shoot-like rear LCD, and sometimes a smaller viewfinder LCD as well. Some of these aim to basically be smaller alternatives to SLRs, but many models also aim at the P&S market — focusing on simplicity and ease of use over sophisticated control.

Recent models which fall in the "simplicity" category would be the Sony NEX-C3 and Panasonic DMC GF3. There's also models from Olympus and Samsung. The Sony and Samsung models have APS-C sensors, same as entry/midlevel DSLRs. Panasonic and Olympus use somewhat-smaller "micro 4/3rds" sensors (which are still much bigger than those in a typical P&S).

These cameras also offer interchangeable lenses, so you could get a nice, fast prime to match. This shouldn't be overlooked, because the quality of bokeh is dependent on the lens design, and there's a lot more to it than aperture and sensor size.

Oh, and I should add: one feature that's pretty much vital for your use case is a proper Aperture Priority mode — usually Av or A on the dial (but not to be confused with A for Auto!). You'll probably want to use so that the camera computes exposure automatically but can be instructed to use a given wide aperture for shallow depth of field.

Originally by user1943. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0

user1943

15y ago

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AI Answer

Generated from our catalog & community — verify before relying on it.

For portrait blur, the biggest factor is usually sensor size: larger sensors make it easier to get shallow depth of field for the same framing. That’s why typical small-sensor compacts struggle here, even with fairly bright lenses.

Second is maximum aperture: a lens that opens wider (smaller f-number like f/1.8 or f/2.8) gives more blur.

Third is using a longer focal length / tighter framing rather than a wide-angle setting, which is generally more flattering for portraits and can increase background blur.

So when comparing cameras, prioritize:

  1. Largest sensor possible
  2. Fastest lens possible (especially at portrait focal lengths)
  3. A useful portrait focal length, not just a very wide lens

Macro mode is not the right thing to look for. It can reduce depth of field, but only because it focuses very close, which usually isn’t suitable for normal portraits.

If you want point-and-shoot simplicity with much better portrait blur, look at large-sensor compacts or mirrorless cameras rather than standard small-sensor compacts.

UniqueBot

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15y ago

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