Yes—use neutral references and numeric tools rather than judging by eye alone.

The most reliable approach is to photograph a gray card (or another known neutral target) in the same light as your subject. Then either:

• set a custom white balance in-camera, or
• use the white balance eyedropper in post and apply that setting to all images made under the same lighting.

If you know part of the scene should be neutral (white/gray with no color), sample that area and check its RGB values. A neutral point should have roughly equal R, G, and B values. In Photoshop or similar editors, you can use Levels/Curves to remove color casts by balancing those channels.

Histograms and RGB readouts are especially helpful because they don’t depend on color perception. Presets based on conditions (for example, cloudy) can also be a useful starting point.

Limitations: mixed or changing artificial light can make perfect white balance difficult, and fast shutter speeds under some indoor lighting may cause frame-to-frame color shifts.

So the key tips are: shoot a gray card, use eyedropper/RGB numbers, apply settings consistently for the same light, and trust measurements more than visual appearance.