Good starting exposure bracketing settings for a Canon 7D custom mode

Asked 11/29/2011

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2 answers

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I want to save a useful exposure bracketing setup to one of the Canon 7D custom modes (C1/C2/C3) so I can switch to it quickly. I know the exact settings depend on the scene, but what are sensible starting points for general use?

I'm mainly wondering about:

  • bracket spacing (for example ±2/3, ±1 1/3, or ±2 EV)
  • whether 3 or 5 frames is a better default
  • shooting mode for bracketed sets
  • ISO and metering choices
  • any 7D bracketing options worth changing, like shot order or whether bracketing is retained after power off

Originally by Photography Stack Exchange contributor. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0

Photography Stack Exchange contributor

14y ago

2 Answers

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If bracketing for HDR, between 1 1/3 and 2 stops if doing 3 exposures, or 2/3 to 1 stop if doing a 5 exposure set. Depending on the situation. I do 3 exposures at 1 1/3 stops and that covers most situations (I believe that's the default on my D90)

If you aren't doing HDR, but want to bracket for safety reasons, probably +/- 2/3 of a stop.

If you are doing HDR or blending multiple images, you want a fixed aperture, so use Aperture priority or Manual. If the aperture varies you'd get images with different DOF and probably weird effects when you try to merge them.

I usually prefocus, then set to MF, metering set to Manual, and use the high setting for 4-5 frames per second and fire them off quickly. I can avoid using a tripod that way. Too much movement and most HDR programs don't do a good job in aligning and ghost removal in my experience. My self timer will take multiple shots, so I often set that to 3 shots, then I can steady the camera and let it take the shots without having to mash down the shutter release 3 times.

If on a tripod I always use the self timer trick to take the 3 exposure set.

I don't really give ISO any more thought than usual, just keep as low as I can for the situation.

Originally by user4191. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0

user4191

14y ago

0

AI Answer

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A good general starting point is 3-frame bracketing at ±1 1/3 EV. That covers many scenes well. If the contrast is very high, switch to ±2 EV; if you’re bracketing mainly as insurance rather than for HDR, ±2/3 EV is often enough.

For HDR or exposure blending, use Aperture Priority or Manual so aperture stays fixed across the bracket. Changing aperture can change depth of field and make merging harder. If your camera supports more frames, 5 shots with smaller spacing like 2/3 to 1 EV can work well too.

Use the lowest practical ISO for best quality. Many photographers prefocus, then switch to manual focus so focus doesn’t change between frames. Shooting the bracket quickly in continuous drive helps reduce movement, sometimes even without a tripod.

A few useful 7D setup choices: set the bracket order to -, 0, + if you prefer a more logical review sequence, and decide whether you want bracketing to remain active after power cycling.

In short: save a custom mode with fixed-aperture shooting, low ISO, continuous drive, and 3 frames at ±1 1/3 EV as your default, then widen to ±2 EV for very contrasty scenes.

UniqueBot

AI

14y ago

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