For indoor low-light shots of moving kids, should I upgrade my flash, lens, or camera body first?
Asked 3/4/2014
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I shoot indoors in a low-light apartment, mostly children moving around, from about 3–6 feet away. My current setup is a Canon T1i with the 18–55mm f/3.5–5.6 kit lens, and I don’t have an external flash.
I’m considering three upgrade paths:
- an external flash
- a faster lens, such as a 17–55mm f/2.8 or 18–35mm f/1.8
- a body upgrade, possibly to full frame
Which upgrade will give the biggest improvement for low-light action and portrait shots indoors?
Originally by Photography Stack Exchange contributor. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
Photography Stack Exchange contributor
12y ago
2 Answers
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No question: adding an external flash. See previous question Prime lens or flash: which upgrade will most improve baby photos?, which covers some of this. A flash can freeze motion, and makes it easy to get enough depth of field to get the whole scene in focus. And when you can move the flash off camera, you can create nice light where it doesn't exist already.
You note that you feel like an external flash doesn't feel practical for most shots. It's actually pretty easy in most situations — put it on a small table stand, point it at the ceiling, and put it somewhere convenient in the room. That means you need something with wireless control, but luckily that's pretty easy to do these days — and much cheaper than going to a full-frame body.
For Canon, unfortunately the T1i's built in flash can't act as a wireless controller, although newer Rebel models like the T3i can. There are couple of recent low-cost flashes like the Cheetah Light V850 or the (upcoming) Cactus RF60 with integrated radio control. Unlike the optically-triggered remote options, you have to set the flash power manually, which actually isn't very hard when since lighting inside doesn't change very much, and these flashes actually let you set the power from the controller on the camera body. (And due-to-be-released-really-soon-now controllers will actually allow TTL with Canon or Nikon bodies.)
Additionally, if your kids are old enough to sit still for you for a few minutes, getting a few light modifiers will allow you to do neat things you couldn't do otherwise. I don't mean a cheap gimmicky thing, but an umbrella or softbox that's at least a 20". That doesn't help with chasing kids, but if they will sit for a bit you can do stuff like these:

These are straight out of camera; no time for post-processing, although next time I will comb her hair a little bit for the second shot. They're at f/5.6 — nothing you can't do with the lens you already have.
This is with the Cheetah flash and a Westcott 10×24" softbox really close to the frame. You can also use a $15 shoot-through umbrella, but the softbox is nice because it takes up a lot less space. That plus a stand and the flash is less than a nice lens would have cost — and for less than the cost of a splurge on a body upgrade, you could get two flashes, plus stands and with a large softener for each.
The catch is that it will take a little bit more work to figure out what you're doing — the often-repeated advice to go through Strobist Lighting 101 and Lighting 102 is really worth it. But if that sounds like too much work or stress, a single external flash and remote trigger of some sort will get you great results.
Or you can even leave it on the camera and bounce off the ceiling — even that will get you better results than pretty much anything else you can do for the money. See this photo from the question linked above (same subject, a few years earlier):

That one was with a flash pointed at the ceiling, with the built-in bounce card pulled out for the sparkle in the eyes. Notably, this wasn't done with an DSLR: it was taken with an Olympus compact; it's the flash that matters.
(All that said, adding the 50mm f/1.8 won't hurt either.)
Originally by user1943. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
user1943
12y ago
0
Generated from our catalog & community — verify before relying on it.
The biggest improvement is an external flash.
For indoor shots of moving kids, flash helps most because it adds much more light than a faster lens or newer body, and it can freeze motion. It also lets you stop down a bit for more depth of field, which is useful when subjects move unpredictably.
A faster lens is still helpful, but each stop only doubles the light, and that benefit applies only to that lens. A body upgrade can improve high-ISO performance, but unless it gives you a major ISO advantage, it’s usually a smaller gain than adding flash—and much more expensive.
If you want simple, practical use, an on-camera flash bounced off the ceiling is often easy and gives much nicer light than direct flash. Off-camera bounce can be even better if you want to experiment.
If you also want a more natural-light look or shallow depth of field, a fast lens is the next thing to consider. A 50mm f/1.8 or an f/1.8 zoom can help, but for your specific problem—low-light indoor action—flash is the first upgrade.
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