Does shooting timelapses wear out the shutter on a Canon 80D?
Asked 7/29/2016
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I want to shoot long timelapse sequences and I’m worried about adding a lot of shutter actuations to my camera. I’ve read conflicting things: some people say timelapse doesn’t move the shutter, while others say every frame counts like a normal photo.
For a Canon 80D specifically, does timelapse shooting cause mechanical shutter wear? Are there ways to reduce wear, or does each frame still count toward the shutter’s lifespan?
Originally by Photography Stack Exchange contributor. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
Photography Stack Exchange contributor
10y ago
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To the best of my understanding it depends on your DSLR.
1. Least wear and tear.
I believe that some DSLRs have the ability to flip the mirror and open the shutter throughout the timelapse. The images are then captured by activating and deactivating the sensor. If this is the case with your camera, then there shouldn't be any mechanical wear and tear. These cameras probably have modes / overrides specifically for timelapses. I've never seen/used one of these.
2. Moderate wear and tear.
Other cameras can either flip the mirror or open the shutter for a period, reducing the wear on these parts. My 7D will flip the mirror during bracketing, but I haven't managed to get it remain up during continuous shooting.
3. Maximum wear and tear.
Lastly are cameras that aren't able to flip the mirror or open the shutter during continuous shooting. Each image requires both to be activated and this will lead to wear and tear. My Canon 7D and it is in this third category. In my experience the movement also causes camera shake, which isn't very nice, particularly if you use a log lens for your timelapse.
If you are unsure, set up a short test and listen. If you hear the mirror or shutter, and you can't find a way to override them, then I suppose you're in category 3.
Workarounds that I have tried with varying success:1. Movie mode
This works reasonable well, actually. Shutter and mirror are still (except if the camera adjusts exposure during). Then, use something like ffmpeg to strip your movie down to individual frames, and hey presto, an image sequence to play with. You're limited by things like your camera's movie resolution and degree of compression, and probably some other movie aspects I'm not aware of. Here's an example with this technique https://vimeo.com/103661603
2. Magic Lantern
If your DSLR is a Canon, Magic Lantern (http://www.magiclantern.fm/) may have a version for you. This opens up your camera to all kinds of fun things, including, in some cases, timelapse modes — careful not to brick your camera though :). I haven't run a timelaspe with ML yet, but I have played with it and it is awesome.
Originally by user54334. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
user54334
10y ago
0
Generated from our catalog & community — verify before relying on it.
On a DSLR like the Canon 80D, a timelapse is usually just a series of normal still photos, so it generally does add shutter actuations and mechanical wear. It will not “break in a month” just because it’s a timelapse, but a very long sequence can consume a meaningful part of the shutter’s rated life.
The confusion comes from the fact that some cameras or shooting modes can reduce mechanical movement by keeping the mirror up, using live view, or using an electronic/electronic-first-curtain option. That can reduce wear on some parts, but it depends on the camera and mode. Not all DSLRs can avoid full mechanical shutter operation for interval shooting.
So the safe assumption is: unless your specific mode is explicitly electronic, each frame in a timelapse should be treated like a normal photo for shutter wear purposes.
If you plan lots of timelapses, check whether the 80D offers a silent/live-view/electronic option for interval shooting, and remember that shutter assemblies are wear items that can be replaced if needed.
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