In focus stacking, one tries to only use the in-focus areas of every picture to generate a larger depth of field. Think of it as multiple pictures above each other with masks, and only the in-focus areas are opaque.

When referring to super-resolution, we usually talk about eliminating noise or doing very slight sensor shifts, therefore getting a higher SNR and/or higher pixel count.

Both techniques assume that one starts with decent pictures. Technology cannot make up information that simply is not there. Super-resolution needs spot-on photos to work, as does focus stacking. Having 200 shots of the milky way that are all way out of focus will not help you to get one very clear one, as the absence of information between the different shots will always be the same (circa).

Another example to get the idea of what is possible would be exposure stacking / HDR - you can get an HDRI out of an underexposed + a properly exposed + an overexposed picture, but take three equally overexposed pictures, and your "HDRI" would hardly differ from one of the original pictures. It is the same with focus.

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Disclaimer: The following paragraph is only true if all your photos look like the one you have uploaded here. If focus varies, then technically, it would qualify as focus stacking to me.

The shown picture does not offer much in terms of differentiation e.g. between feathers - and since all of the photos will most probably lack this because it is not the noise of the sensor, but the lens's lack of resolution/sharpness, no software can accurately add this information. In theory, it would be possible to create a software that would add some feather-like texture to any out-of-focus bird, but I would not think that many people would be interested in it, as results would be horrible anyways. You might be able to get the eye a tad sharper if the bird moved around a bit, but that would count as focus-stacking (IMHO). If the main issue is resolution/sharpness of the lens, and not the focus (as it is in the sample image), then you could, in theory, get better results when panning/tilting the lens a bit, as it perhaps has a sweet spot for sharpness and you could get some details there. Again, this does not differ much from doing focus-stacking.