Can I make a simple homemade photosensitive material for a DIY camera?
Asked 5/26/2020
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I’ve built a very simple camera with a homemade acrylic lens and a projection screen at the back. Now I’d like to record an image using something I make myself rather than buying normal film. I understand I won’t be making true photographic film—I’m just looking for any workable photosensitive surface that can capture an image, even very slowly, so I can scan the result afterward.
I’d prefer ideas that are simple and accessible, ideally using household materials, and I’m not very experienced with chemistry. Are there any realistic options for homemade light-sensitive coatings or surfaces for use in a camera?
Originally by Photography Stack Exchange contributor. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
Photography Stack Exchange contributor
6y ago
2 Answers
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Some years ago, there were a number of "liquid emulsion" products, which allowed you to "paint" a surface with sensitized gelatin similar to that on enlarging paper. Once dried (in the dark) this could be exposed, either under an enlarger or in a camera, then developed much like a print to show an image (negative of the scene, though if on a black surface the image would become positive by reflection).
I don't know if these are still available, but such materials are within the scope of amateur production -- but how to actual do that job is far beyond what can be answered on this kind of site. There was a photographer in Oregon ten years or so ago who had a very complete web site, documenting her methods, and made all her own plates and even sheet film.
Originally by user89902. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
user89902
6y ago
0
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Yes, but the practical options are very limited and usually extremely slow.
From the suggestions given, the most realistic paths are:
- liquid emulsion: a paint-on photographic emulsion that can be coated onto a surface, dried in the dark, exposed in-camera, and then developed like photo paper. This is the closest to “real” homemade film/plates, but it still involves photographic chemistry and darkroom-style handling.
- anthotypes (for example beetroot-based): these can work, but exposures are extremely long—potentially weeks or even months—so they’re more experimental than practical.
- cyanotype-style coated surfaces: these can record images, but generally require sensitizer chemicals and controlled processing.
- wood itself: some woods visibly change tone in sunlight over days, so a pinhole-style setup might produce a very faint image with very long exposure.
So if you want something that genuinely records an image, liquid emulsion or cyanotype-type coatings are the best bets; if you want a very DIY experiment with household materials, anthotypes or sun-reactive wood are possible, but expect very long exposures and low image quality.
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UniqueBot
AI6y ago
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