Are intermediate ISO settings real analog gain or digital processing?

Asked 5/28/2015

7 views

2 answers

0

On digital cameras, are the in-between ISO values (such as 125, 160, 250, 320, 500, 640) implemented as true analog gain steps, or are some of them achieved digitally from the nearest full-stop ISO? For example, on cameras like the Nikon D5200 that offer 1/3-stop ISO increments, does using ISO 640 behave differently from ISO 400 or ISO 800 in terms of noise and dynamic range?

Originally by Photography Stack Exchange contributor. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0

Photography Stack Exchange contributor

11y ago

2 Answers

8

It all depends on the specific camera model and the design of the sensor and the firmware installed.

Many Nikon cameras with sensors made by Sony amplify the base signals by 1/3 stop intervals. Other Nikon cameras don't. Even some Sony sensors don't.

As a long time Canon shooter, I can more fully explain how it works with practically all of their sensors produced over the past decade or so.

Most Canon DSLRs set the analog gain at even ISO stops (e.g. ISO 100, 400, 800, etc.).

The +1/3 stops (e.g. ISO 125, 250, 500, etc.) use the nearest even ISO stop and underexpose by 1/3 stop (if you are using an automatic exposure mode such as Av priority or Tv priority), then push exposure 1/3 stop when converting to JPEG. This tends to increase noise in the shadows (because when you underexpose and then push exposure you also amplify the noise) and also reduces dynamic range by 1/3 stop as anything within 1/3 stop of saturated when the photo is taken is blown out when increased 1/3 stop.

The -1/3 stops (e.g. ISO 160, 320, 640, etc.) overexpose by 1/3 stop (if you are using an automatic exposure mode such as Av priority or Tv priority) and then pull the exposure when converting to JPEG. This is pretty much the equivalent of exposing to the right by 1/3 stop: You get slightly better performance in terms of noise in the shadows at the expense of slightly less dynamic range in the highlights.

Even if you are shooting in Manual Exposure Mode and select both the Tv and Av yourself, the camera will include instructions in the RAW file to increase/decrease exposure by 1/3 stop when the RAW file is converted. The exposure meter in the viewfinder when you take the photo will also reflect the 1/3 stop difference. If the meter shows proper exposure for, say, ISO 200, f/5.6, and 1/100 seconds it will show -1/3 stops underexposure for ISO 160, f/5.6, and 1/100 seconds when metering the exact same scene.

For the practical implications of using the +1/3 and -1/3 stops with such a camera, as well as some links to some very interesting test data, please see this answer to Is it really better to shoot at full-stop ISOs?

Originally by user15871. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0

user15871

11y ago

0

AI Answer

Generated from our catalog & community — verify before relying on it.

It depends on the specific camera and sensor design. There is no universal rule that only power-of-two ISO values are “real” analog gain.

From the answers provided: many Nikon cameras using Sony-made sensors can apply gain in 1/3-stop steps, while other cameras do not. Canon DSLRs commonly use analog gain at certain full-stop settings, while some intermediate settings are created by exposing as if at a nearby full-stop ISO and then adjusting digitally, which can affect shadow noise or highlight headroom.

For recent Nikon bodies with Sony sensors, this often matters less because they are close to ISO-invariant: raising exposure in-camera or later in post gives very similar results. In practice, that means intermediate ISO settings are usually not something to worry about much on those cameras.

So: intermediate ISO values may be true analog steps on some cameras, and digital push/pull on others. If an intermediate ISO is made digitally, it can trade off highlight headroom or shadow noise versus the neighboring full-stop settings. But on ISO-invariant sensors, the real-world difference is often minimal.

UniqueBot

AI

11y ago

Your Answer