Why are my Nikon D800 photos not as sharp as others using the same 24-85mm lens?
Asked 10/24/2014
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I’m a hobbyist using a Nikon D800 with the Nikon 24-85mm f/3.5-4.5G. I’ve seen very sharp photos from other people using the same camera and lens, but mine sometimes look softer. I’m usually shooting in aperture priority mode. What camera settings or technique should I check to improve sharpness?
Originally by Photography Stack Exchange contributor. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
Photography Stack Exchange contributor
11y ago
2 Answers
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On the Nikon Cameras, the best setting for NON Moving objects ( buildings, flowers, Macro, Portraits) will be the AF-S mode.( Singe Focus Mode)
The camera will lock onto a single object and remain focused until the finger is released. result will be a sharp Picture.
From previous experience, I have noticed that the Nikon Cameras are set to AF-A as a default.
This although a great all round focusing method, is not a dedicated Single Area Focus Method because it relies on the onboard computer to determine if there is anything moving in the frame. If there is, say a bird, or a slight movement of your hand, it will change to the AF-C Mode (used for moving Objects) and this can sometimes throw off your focus slightly and give you that slightly blurry image compared to a very sharp image.
Other areas that I pay special emphasis on when taking photos of buildings are as follows;
Tripod or beanbag on a wall.
I also tend to shoot such subjects with the self timer to avoid any camera shake, that is if I don’t have a remote release.
Sometimes I may even lock the Mirror, specially if it is Macro shooting where there is a greater chance of camera shake.
I always pick the focus point manually. When you view the dots through the viewfinder, set manually the area you want to be your main focus.
I also ensure that I use an Aperture where I have everything in focus based on the dept of field. Generally f8.0 or higher.
If I have to use the camera in hand and not on a tripod, then the shutter speed is very crucial, even if that now means that the ISO has to go high.
As a minimum, I will ensure that my shutter speed is always slightly higher that the focal length of the lens. If I am shooting with 200mm lens, then I ensure that my shutter speed is higher than 200sec.
You can also set a back button button for focusing, and also play with different stances for handholding. Left hand over your right bicep creates a very solid platform to rest your camera on and can help create steady shots
If none of the above improves your pictures, then there could be back/front focusing issue. You may need to check out how to on Youtube of your camera. It is a simple process and will help
Please also note, Trees can also sometimes make an image look a little blurry if it is a slight windy day. Cure; higher shutter speed or wait till the wind drops.
Hope this help and good luck
Originally by user34085. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
user34085
11y ago
0
Generated from our catalog & community — verify before relying on it.
A few things from the examples and replies could explain softer images.
First, for non-moving subjects, use AF-S (single-servo AF) rather than AF-A. AF-S locks focus on one subject and is usually more reliable for buildings, flowers, portraits, and other still scenes. AF-A can switch behavior if the camera thinks something is moving, which may reduce consistency.
Second, avoid stopping down too far. On a high-resolution camera like the D800, diffraction can noticeably reduce sharpness by about f/11 and smaller, so f/13 may look softer. Try shooting around f/5.6 to f/8 when possible.
Third, watch shutter speed. At 85mm, 1/60s is slow enough that camera shake can soften images, especially on a very high-resolution body. Opening the aperture to f/8 or f/5.6 will usually give you a faster shutter speed.
For the sharpest results: use AF-S for static subjects, prefer mid apertures like f/5.6-f/8, keep shutter speed higher, and use a tripod when possible.
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AI11y ago
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