How can I improve autofocus accuracy and get the focus point where I want it?
Asked 10/12/2015
42 views
2 answers
0
I’m losing otherwise good shots because autofocus often doesn’t land where I intended, even when I use a single AF point. On the camera screen the image can look fine, but later I notice the focus is slightly off.
For example, I placed the AF point over a subject’s face, locked focus, and took the shot, but the image ended up looking focused elsewhere. I know I could stop down for more depth of field, but that can force a slower shutter speed and lead to motion blur. Manual focus also isn’t ideal for me.
What techniques can help me get more consistent autofocus results, and how should I balance focus accuracy with shutter speed and blur?
Originally by Photography Stack Exchange contributor. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
Photography Stack Exchange contributor
11y ago
2 Answers
5
Although the auto focus does appear to be centered in a slightly front-focused direction, the main culprit in your image is camera movement. Even the sharpest areas of the image are considerably blurry. The missed focus just makes it that much worse. Without EXIF information it is difficult to recommend how to best approach fixing that side of the equation, but you need to either add light, open the aperture, or increase ISO in order to shorten the needed shutter speed or you need to stabilize the camera better.
As to how to use the focus system better you must first learn how the focus system works.
- Your AF system will attempt to focus on the area of highest contrast within the active AF point(s). Even if the area of highest contrast is on the extreme edge of the area(s) of sensitivity. There is no "center weighted average" with modern multipoint AF systems.
- These areas are normally much larger than the little square for each one that you see in the viewfinder! Several times larger in many cases.
- Some "points" can overlap each and share lines on the AF sensor array. Each camera has a specific coverage map.
Here is the map for the Canon 7D. The same AF system is shared by the Canon 70D. For a full explanation of the data on this chart, please see https://photo.stackexchange.com/a/41179/15871
For a look at how this works out practically when shooting, see this entry from Andre's Blog.
For a look at how AF accuracy can vary from shot to shot, see this entry from Roger Cicala's blog at lensrentals.com. With the shallower depth of field (DoF) obtained when using wider apertures, there is less room for error and often the standard deviation of an AF system will exceed the DoF for a given focal length, aperture, and subject distance.
It goes without saying that if your camera offers Auto Focus Micro Adjustment (AFMA) you should calibrate your body to each of your lenses. How to properly do that is covered at Which offers better results: FoCal or LensAlign Pro? and What is the best way to micro-adjust a camera body to a particular lens?.
With APS-C cameras the AF system can't be as accurate as a well designed AF system in a Full Frame camera because the smaller sensor and mirror dictate a narrower baseline for the AF sensor. When using an APS-C body I've gotten to the point that I will often shoot in high speed burst mode and take 2-3 frames of each pose to try and insure that one is reasonably close to properly focused.
In the specific case of the example photo in your question, you might consider using the AF assist function of your built in or shoe mounted flash. They can be set to provide AF Assist without firing the main flash when the shutter is open. In this case, though, a little fill light might be desirable as well. If it is pointed correctly and E-TTL communication is possible with the camera then AF Assist can also work using an off camera flash. Some shoe mounted wireless flash transmitters also include an infrared emitter for AF Assist.
Originally by user15871. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
user15871
11y ago
0
Generated from our catalog & community — verify before relying on it.
Your example appears to have two issues: missed focus and overall blur from camera movement. Even perfect AF won’t look sharp if shutter speed is too slow, so first make sure you have enough shutter speed by adding light, opening the aperture, raising ISO, or stabilizing the camera better.
For autofocus itself:
- AF works best with light and contrast.
- A single AF point still covers an area, and the camera will usually focus on the highest-contrast detail within that area.
- In low-contrast/dark areas, AF may struggle or grab something slightly in front of or behind your intended target.
To improve consistency:
- Aim the AF point at a high-contrast detail on the subject, ideally the eyes; the chin/edge of facial features can work better than a flat dark area.
- Learn which AF points are strongest on your camera; the center point is often more sensitive, and some points are cross-type while others need horizontal or vertical contrast.
- If needed, focus with a stronger AF point on a contrasty detail, then recompose carefully.
In short: use faster shutter speeds, give AF more contrast, and use the most capable AF point for the target.
Recommended products
UniqueBot
AI11y ago
Your Answer
Related Questions
When should you use off-center autofocus points instead of focus-and-recompose?
How can I create motion blur in daylight with a DSLR?
Should you focus-and-recompose or move the autofocus point?
Can you calibrate autofocus on a Canon 60D?
Why do mirrorless cameras list so many autofocus points, and does it matter?
