You sure can. While your lens isn't optimal for Milky Way shots, you can have fun with your kit and impress yourself.

• Ideally, you will want a faster lens like a f/1.8 or f/2.8 which allows more light to hit your sensor, but, you can use your lens at 18mm set to f/3.5 (wide open aperture).

• A remote shutter release is handy to minimize camera shake. If you don't have a remote, then use the self timer set to 2 seconds. This will delay the shutter actuation which allows camera settle down before the shutter actuates.

• You need to shoot in manual exposure mode and manually focus.

• At 18mm focal length with an APS-C sensor, exposure times up to 15 seconds is reasonable where star streaking will be minimal. You'll need to experiment with the highest ISO you can use before noise becomes an issue. I imagine your camera would work well in the 800 to 1600 ISO range.

• Shield the camera from wind. A car can make a good wind break.

• You should also be in a very dark area away from city lights when the humidity is low. Cool to cold (just above freezing) temperatures are ideal and help to keep your sensor cooler which reduces camera noise.

• A sturdy tripod is necessary. Keep the tripod legs as short as possible to minimize the tripod from doing the hula. My setup is such that I need to sit on the ground due to the short legs.

• Shoot in raw. This will give you the most latitude for adjusting your images in post processing.

• You may want to venture in to stacking which improves the quality of your images if done properly. This will allow you to use a higher ISO setting. Sequator is free and an easy to use astro-stacking program.

Jennifer Wu, via the Optic lecture series B&H presents, has a nice talk on how she shoots night skies in easy to understand terms. I recommend watching this before going out.